The Importance of Couture Hand Finishing Techniques / by Vincenzo Pintaudi

Hand couture techniques define the quality of a finished masterpiece. It is these finishing touches of a garment which will set it apart between a mass production gown and a breathtaking bespoke piece.
Vincenzo emphasises the importance of the final touches and ensures that only the highest standards of master finishing construction techniques are used on every bespoke gown he creates. 

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Hand finishings are usually worked on at the final stages of construction, as the base gown needs to be fully stitched so that the final touches and placement of lace applique, beads, etc.. can be mapped out.

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One of the reasons for hand stitching is that it gives a much finer degree of control over the fabric, compared with using a machine. To achieve the couture standard each individual stitch is so carefully sewn and so fine that it is not easily visible.

Beads, Pearls, Sequins & Feathers
Handpicked for each individual gown, only the highest quality swarovski crystals, glass beads and swarovski crystal pearls are used at VP Couture. Detailed instructions are then pinned out or marked to show the exact position, balance and spacing necessary for each design.

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Preparation

Hours upon hours of preparation is spent planning, measuring and trimming lace ready for the hand finishers to stitch.

Vincenzo loves working closely with his suppliers to source the highest quality unique embellishments. He carefully chooses each bead, colour and thread with great care. Cutting, hand sewing and fastenings of threads are so carefully and slowly worked to ensure patterns in beading and lace are symmetrical but also that extreme care is taken not to trim away beads from a design but rather a tiny border is left to ensure all panels are secure.

An eye for detail is essential, accompanied with meticulous preparation. A lot of time is taken to prepare beforehand and this can include trimming back and positioning of lace work. The placement is very crucial and can involve a vast amount of time in measuring to ensure the spacing is symmetrical and balanced as this is where the eyes can lead at first glance.

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Precision

Carefully hand stitched beads are placed ever so preciseley

Applique & Lacework
Applique is the most intricate technique and takes the longest as each stitch must be precise. The tension of the thread when sewing needs to be controlled so as not to create pulls or dragging. This technique is very labour intensive but achieves highest standard in finishing with no visible seamlines. Techniques such as flattening and shaping by steaming and pressing the lace helps to make the lace easier to work with and mould against the shape of the gown.

Many other hand finishing techniques are used here are just a few:

 Draping

Draping

 Herringbone Cross Stitch

Herringbone Cross Stitch

 Perfectly spaced hand sewn covered buttons  VP Couture Gown Photographed by  Katie Harmsworth

Perfectly spaced hand sewn covered buttons
VP Couture Gown Photographed by Katie Harmsworth

You can be sure that although the gowns are intricately and delicately worked on meticulously for up to hundreds of hours, there is a strong sense of quality so you can have full confidence that your dream gown not only looks amazing but is of the utmost highest quality standards at VP Couture.

 The  Harper  Gown by VP Couture

The Harper Gown by VP Couture